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Stitches are usually small and sometimes invisible, but they are the core of every sewing operation! If you are not using the correct stitches for your application, the whole thing may fall apart or not fit the purpose. In this quick guide to stitch types, we introduce several industrial sewing stitches and the most commonly used stitches. Stitch classification is not the most interesting topic, but understanding the pros and cons of the various stitch types that can be used will help you choose the right one for your project!

Chain stitches belong to category 100. They are created when two or more threads are combined to produce a stitch that looks like a chain. They are formed by a continuous thread that wraps around on itself, which means there is no bobbin thread. The stitches created are slightly larger than other types of stitches and have a unique "knot" effect composed of thick textured threads. They are often used to stitch decorative details on clothes, and sometimes they are also used on the waistband and leg seams of jeans.

Advantages: unique decorative appearance. It has more seam elasticity than flat stitches.

Disadvantages: relatively easy to untie. It can be laborious to sew.

101-Single thread chain stitch. This stitch is formed from a sewing needle with a sewing thread. The thread is entangled with itself to form a neat stitch, which is usually used for temporary stitching or fixation. It is also used for decorative purposes.

103-Single thread blind stitch. This stitch is a derivative of stitch type 101 and is used for blind stitches. The stitches are formed using a curved needle that enters and exits the fabric from the same side that carries the needle thread. The thread loops with the blind curved needle on the surface of the material. It is usually used for applications such as hemming of pants and skirts. This stitch is not visible on the surface of the garment, which is the origin of the term "blind stitch".

Flat stitches are class 300 and are made when two threads are locked together at a small interval. They are formed by needle thread and bobbin thread locked together. The needle thread is introduced from one side of the fabric, and then hooked by the hook and interlaced with the thread below to form a stitch. It can be said to be the most commonly used stitch type!  

Advantages: not easy to disperse. It is reversible because it looks the same on both sides of the material. Use the least number of threads. Provides excellent seam security. Has a wide range of uses. It's fast and cheap. A flat stitch is produced.

Disadvantages-poor scalability (301). It may be easier to disconnect. The production efficiency is low due to frequent replacement of the lower thread bobbin.

301-Classic single-needle lockstitch. This stitch looks like a neat straight line with two threads twisted together at the center of the seam. It is a popular choice for top stitching and general all-round stitching. The 301 double-needle lockstitch stitch is basically the same, except that the second stitch means that it produces two parallel stitches.

304-Flat seam zigzag stitch. This stitch works similarly to the 301 flat seam stitch, but forms a zigzag pattern. It is formed by the interlocking of the needle and the bobbin thread, and the needle bar moves laterally when the material is fed, forming a symmetrical zigzag pattern. The main difference in application between this and grade 301 is that this variant can be stretched, so it is usually used when a higher seam elongation is required. Therefore, it is a popular choice for attaching elastic bands/laces to underwear.

Multi-thread chain stitches (or double chain stitches) belong to the 400 category. They are formed when one or more needle threads pass through the fabric and are connected to a set of loop threads on the underside of the garment. The resulting stitches look different on the top and bottom of the fabric. It is used in a variety of applications, such as sewing suit jackets and adding decorative stitches to belts.

Advantages: The appearance is similar to the standard chain stitch, but it has higher durability and elongation. If sewn correctly, it is less likely to cause seams to wrinkle compared to standard chain stitches.

Disadvantages: consumes more thread than standard chain stitch. It's still very easy to untie. Irreversible. Seams that are thicker than flat seams.

401-A two-thread chain stitch consisting of a needle thread and a curved needle thread. The threads cross under the fabric. It is used for applications such as connecting trouser panels, sewing waist belts and inseams of jeans.  

402-A stitch similar to 401 is formed, but with a zigzag pattern for higher elasticity. Used to fix the waistband lining on men's trousers.

406-Double needle overlock stitch. It is formed by two needle threads and a curved needle thread. It is usually used to cover the raw edges of the bottom edge. It produces smooth and comfortable seams, which can be used for wrapping seams, sewing belt loops, binding and fixing elastic bands to underwear.

407-Three-needle overlock, a variant of 406 stitch. It consists of 3 needle threads and a curved needle thread. It is stronger and more elastic, and is also used in underwear.   

Overlock stitches are class 500 and are also called overlock, overlock, serge, cloudy, or Merrow stitches. They are commonly used to create stitches on the edges of cut fabrics. Each of these stitches is similar to a series of loops, they are usually used for hemming and stitching, stitched to the edge of the cut fabric to trim the edges. The inner stitching is reinforced by threads around the edges of the fabric to ensure it is wrapped. Overlock sewing machines usually trim the edges of the fabric when sewing to prevent fraying or uneven edges. Overlock stitches are very common and often appear on the side seams of T-shirts and other knitted or knitted fabric items.

Advantages: strong seams. Very good extension. Decorative. Prevent the edges of clothes from fraying. Can sew quickly. Don't untie it easily. It can usually run at high speed.

Disadvantages: high thread consumption. The seams may be large.

503-Also called 2-thread overlock stitch, this stitch type is created when the needle thread interlocks with the looper thread on the edge of the fabric. It is used to prevent the edges of the material from fraying, and is usually used for blind stitches on T-shirts. It is not used for seams because it is designed to fold and flatten when the seams are loaded laterally.

504-Also known as 3-thread overlock stitch, this stitch is formed by 1 needle thread and 2 looper threads, which are interlocked at the edge of the fabric. It is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from fraying and to connect 2 or more edges together, for example in the seams of knitted fabrics. It produces quite large seams and is not as safe as the 4-wire alternative.

512-Also called 4-thread analog safety stitch, created by 2 needle threads and 2 looper threads. In this stitch, the upper side of the stitch is similar to the upper side of a real safety stitch (stitch type 516). It is used to form strong seams on the edges of fabrics and has good extensibility. Its thread consumption is high, but it is safer than the 504 stitch.

514-This overlock stitch is formed by 2 needle threads and 2 looper threads. This is called four-wire hemming (full hemming). This is because the top looper extends the thread to the left-hand sewing needle, while stitch type 512 only extends its upper looper thread to the right-hand sewing needle. Then we have 515 stitches, which belong to four threads (safety stitches)-consisting of a row of 401 stitches (chain stitches) and a row of 503 stitches (two-thread overburden. It is a highly elastic and powerful stitch String.

516-Stitch type 516, or 5-thread "fully safe" stitch, is another combination stitch type. It consists of 2 needle threads and 3 looper threads. This stitch type combines a 401 chain stitch and a 504 three-thread hemming (hemming full safety stitch). The chain stitch (401) part is used to bear weight, while the three-thread edging (504) element covers the edge of the material and provides additional seam security. It is used to connect panels where elasticity and seam safety are important.

Coverstitches belong to the 600 category and are also called flat lock stitches or cover chain stitches. They are composed of multiple threads and are the most complicated of all stitch types. Some stitches have as many as 9 stitches, including four stitches, curved needles and stretched stitches! Coverstitches are usually used for hemming, often used to make items such as sweatshirts, sportswear and T-shirts, and to attach lace and elastic bands to knitted fabrics. They are the basic overlock stitch type with the addition of the cap thread produced by the spreader equipment. The top cover element provides decoration and protection to strengthen the seam.

Advantages: Suitable for processing elastic fabrics. Has high flexibility. Provide professional surface treatment for sportswear and children's clothing. safe. Produces smooth and comfortable seams that will not irritate the skin.

Disadvantages: high thread consumption. Using machines may require more skills, so training is sometimes required.

602-Also known as the double-needle overlock stitch with top cover, this stitch is very similar to 406, but with the addition of the top cover thread. This is often used to attach collars to knitted garments because it can produce neat top and bottom covers and flat seams. It consists of 2 needles, 1 curved needle and 1 scattered wire. It is used as a decorative stitch on pajamas and sweatshirts, used to sew the legs of sportswear and the shoulder straps of swimwear.

605- This stitch is also called a three-needle overlock stitch with a top cover. It consists of five threads, three from the needle, one from the curved needle, and one cap thread. It is usually used for cutting edge binding and attaching elastic bands. Seams using this stitch have high elasticity, which makes it ideal for elastic garments. It can also be used to create decorative seams. It has high seam elasticity and very high thread usage rate.

607-This flat stitch consists of 6 threads, 4 of which come from the needle, one from the looper and one from the cap thread. This type of stitch consumes a high amount of thread, but produces a smooth, comfortable seam that can handle a lot of stretch and seam elongation.

No matter what type of stitch you need for your next project, we can help! We provide various industrial sewing machines and deliver them to you. They are fully constructed, set up and ready for use. For more information, please contact our team via the contact form on the website or email to info@ae-sewingmachines.co.uk

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